Choosing an SMP pigment shade is not as simple as matching the darkest hair on the client’s head. The objective is to create follicle impressions that visually sit naturally within the scalp and remaining hair.
Look at the Natural Follicle
A shaved follicle often reads softer than the full hair shaft. That makes the follicle itself a more useful visual reference than long hair color alone.
Consider Skin Tone and Undertone
The same pigment concentration can look different from one client to another. Skin tone and undertone affect the overall visual contrast between scalp and impression.
Consider the Procedure
Hairline work often calls for more softness. Density work must integrate with existing hair. Scar camouflage may need a more conservative build because scar tissue can respond differently from surrounding skin.
Choose the Right Base
Original is a versatile starting point. BLVK Label provides a deeper black base. Midnight Brown offers a brown-based option. Sunset can introduce warmth when appropriate.
Reassess Between Sessions
SMP is often built over multiple sessions. Use the healed result from one session to guide the next rather than assuming the same mix should be repeated automatically.
For a broader reference, visit the SMP Color Chart & Pigment Mixing Guide.